Rise of the Small Oven

Courtesy of Small Oven's Facebook Page

Small Oven features daily delicacies such as thyme, goat cheese, and kalamata olive croissants.

As Easthampton continues to expand its rapidly growing café industry, Small Oven rises to fill a currently vacant niche in local cuisine with baked goods sourced from local farms. Rainy spring mornings, hot coffee, and pain au chocolat– the breakfast options at Easthampton’s fledgling Small Oven Bakery evoke the finest in European breakfasts, right down to the espresso and croissants.

Small Oven opened on March 25 to rave reviews. Owners Amanda Milazzo and Julie Copoulos funded the bakery through a Kickstarter that raised $17,617 of its $15,000 goal, in addition to drawing on their personal savings. At 7:45, less than an hour after their early opening, the small shop maintains a peaceful atmosphere. Customers come in at a steady rate, a relatively even mix of commuters and diners. Nestled into Riffs’ old location next to the laundromat, Small Oven’s pastry-dominated menu and small but high-quality coffee selection brings to mind continental breakfasts in Milan and Paris.

Small Oven opened on March 25 to rave reviews. Owners Amanda Milazzo and Julie Copoulos funded the bakery through a Kickstarter that raised $17, 617 of its $15,000 goal, in addition to drawing on their personal savings. As Easthampton continues to expand its rapidly growing café industry, Small Oven rises to fill a currently vacant niche in local cuisine with baked goods sourced from local farms.

The service is phenomenal, to say the least. The owners maintain a casual repartee with every customer, from the first-timers to their growing group of regulars. Milazzo and Copoulos take pride in their business, their interpersonal relationships with the clientele, and most importantly in their products.

The pain au chocolat, an old standby among pastries, has a light, airy texture and crisp outer shell that, paired with a velvety chocolaty center, melts in your mouth. Brendan Hellweg ’14 says, “not only is the coffee a dark ambrosia fit for kings and conquerors, but…the bread takes you back to the glory days before the French Revolution, stuffed with olives an abundant flavor. In short, it is a terrific temple of taste and texture.”

There are no choices of coffee brews here, save for decaf, high-test, or espresso. However, the lack of variety is quickly compensated for with a strong brew that surpasses many of its competitors. More importantly, Small Oven’s forte lies in its baked goods, which regularly sell out by their early 3 PM closing time. Their thick, hardwood tables and slate-covered counter lend a rustic, semi-industrial look to the bakery, a pleasing aesthetic for those who take the time to sit down and enjoy their treats.

Unlike the bakery’s likely competitors, Tandem Bagel Co. and Shelburne Falls Coffee Roasters, the restaurant’s drawing power lies in its high quality over wide variety. This is a place to enjoy a few top choices of the best baked goods around as opposed to a hundred lesser options. Your double dirty soy chai tea latte belongs elsewhere.

As Small Oven continues to catch its stride, the menu will soon expand to sandwiches, soups and salads, allowing them to cover typical café faire while maintaining their unique spot in the local culinary community.

The atmosphere feels somewhat foreign to Easthampton, more urban sheikh than local hangout. As Williston photography teacher Ed Hing puts it, “When I first walked in there, I felt like I had left Easthampton. And I’m not sure how I feel about that, because in some ways, it’s maybe a sign of the hipsterization of Easthampton—might be a bad thing. But when it comes down to it, it’s the pastries that are the important thing.” However, the bakery remains cozy and comfortable, the perfect place for a tasty bite without the upholstered couches that so easily kill an afternoon.

The Small Oven Bakery, located at 36 Union Street, is open from 7 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday and 8 AM to 2 PM on Sunday. The bakery can be reached at (413) 527-1785, or through smallovenbakes.com. Get there early to take a bite out of the best baked goods in town.